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AV8R

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New Guy to Pulsars

Post04 Jul 2007, 10:20

Hello,

Im a new guy to PULSAR LED watches, although I helped work on the HUGHES AIRCRAFT hybrid designs out of Fullerton and Newport Beach California back in the Reagon era.

As I age, Ive become more nastalgic and thus Ive indulged into a couple of collection hobbies. They are:
1. WW1 and WW2 aviation (including avionics, flight gear, and some time pieces) and a few weapons.

2. Watches. This started out just being cockpit clocks (Jap Zero, Me109, B17, pilots watches too). Then it moved to modern military watches. I like the black ones with the rotating sliderules. Just like them as Im big into flight simulation, mostly combat online with other guys like myself.

3. Just recently I bought my first LED watch from Ebay, a MICROSONIC with a HAC module. I used to have an original HAC employee first generation LED watch, but I cannot find it right now, its packed away somewheres. So this MICROSONIC/HAC watch was my entry level LED watch that uses a HUGHES AIRCRAFT CO module - my old company.

Well, it was buggy, so I found this LED watch guru named ED. He worked on mine and eventually sold me a TIFFANY lens and type2 HAC module because mine was still temperature sensitive and the time digits would partially display.

One thing LED to another...

And I bought my first James Bond style P2 PULSAR in excellent condition from ED. I fell in love, as much as a grown man can with an electronic gadget... remember Im an electrical engineer so I like geeky stuff. Being the same style as James Bond, and that cool magnet style for programming the time. How cool is that? Style wise its still a good looker.

And you cant have just one potato chip or cookie, right?

So, I bought my Sport 3502-2 from BARB (Mike) like everyone else on Ebay. Its very sleek and I intend to wear this one, hopefully its water proof or resistant? (with capacitive reed switches Im guess it cannot) Funny that its a SPORT watch but cannot get too wet... whats the scoop?

The LEDs are 1/2 as bright on the 3502 as with the P2 James Bond Pulsar. That has me a bit concerned. Is that common?

Anyways, Im praddled on long enough and Ill post a picture of them both soon. Just wanted to intro myself and would love to hear more about these Pulsars from you long timers.

I was also wondering if it might be worth while to start a forum thread where we all post our model type, serial numbers and pictures if we have them to share. THis way we can document and make a data base that can be used for comparison and discussion.

For starters...

P2 James Bond: #130104
P4 3502-2 Sport: #768935

Thomas AV8R,
Shaken, not stirred...
Last edited by AV8R on 04 Jul 2007, 15:51, edited 1 time in total.
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T-bird

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Post04 Jul 2007, 15:22

Hello Thomas, welcome to the forum.

Your Sport model "suffers" from a different glass that makes the display look dim, if compared to your P2 (by the way, the Sport is not technically a P4, but a whole new module, the TC).
If you compare the displays with the glasses removed, they have the same brightness, and the TC display is bigger because is magnified by its microlenses (or bubbles, if you prefer).
I guess that early Sport models actually had this "clearer" glass on them just like the rest of the Pulsar lineup, and this has been addressed in the other post you've already seen. I can't say for sure, but probably later Sports had this new glass which is less transparent than the regular ruby screen found on other Pulsars...

Anyway, it's not a good moment to talk about glasses... :lol:

Take care.
Al.
4 Doors = 2 Cars
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AV8R

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Post06 Jul 2007, 06:08

Update: Pulsar 3502-2 Sport received plus 3 days.

Out here in So California, its been over 105 degrees F daily.
Been wearing the SPORT full time and noticed there are conditions
when the time and second function (bottom button enabled) fails to
work properly.

When the watch gets hot, around 100 degrees F, the time function stops
working and even sometimes it sticks on the date display.

Ive been able to reproduce this by putting the watch in the fridge to
fix the problem, or heat it up with the hair dryer to warm to the touch to
make it fail (not hot but warm).

Conclusion, at least this watch is temperature sensitive.
Not sure if its the circuitry or button design
Has anyone else noticed this?

Ive relayed this to BARB (Mike) on Ebay of whom I purchased it.
No reply yet, but Ill report back as to the status.

As a further note, Ive noticed this problem with the MicroSonic with the
HAC module asforementioned. Im wondering if these older electronics
are weakened by age, or are not very temperature tolerant in component or system design.

Is this a common behavior of this era electronic watch?

Feedback welcomed
Last edited by AV8R on 11 Jul 2007, 01:25, edited 1 time in total.
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AV8R

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Post11 Jul 2007, 01:23

Update... July 10th 2007

1. Barbie9 (Mike) hasn't responded yet to my inquires as to the
low brightness and temperature sensitivity of the SPORT I recently
purchased from him July 2nd. Maybe he is on vacation still, no response
yet from email. I read that he is top notched here, so ill give him more time.

2. The 30 year old SPORT is both:
a. Temperature senstive (over 100 degrees F it stops displaying)
b. Humidity/moisture sensitive (wearing while riding a bike or jogging and it will short the display as RETROLED suggested)

I qoute:
Other than the Synchronar, few LED watches were advertised as waterproof, more like water-resistant. I'm wonder if what you are thinking Paul is how the buttons get stuck "ON" when you get them wet(washing hands, etc.). We had a thread about this before.....[my suggestion which a few people took]basically, you rub a little clear silicone caulk on the buttons(while bone dry) and then wipe off the excess, and then water won't lodge between the case and button causing a short. There IS an insulator around the button, but it only comes up so far - the silicone is just adding another .5mm or so of insulator.


This last time I took it on the bike at the gym, it stopped displaying altogether. Hair dryer didnt resurrect it either. So I put it into the fridge for 10 minutes and now its back to normal displaying again.


Bottom line, the SPORT is a dress watch only, a hangar queen. ;)
But I will try the Silcone workaround to make pass boot camp.
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high temperatures...

Post11 Jul 2007, 12:02

Hello all, I live in Greece, Europe.

Here, always, the summer is very hot and especially this year we have a very-very hot summer.

Temperatures at my home are almost 110F every day.

Recently I have bought a Pulsar 3502-02 from Mike (Barbie).

The watch is stored in a room at my home without air-conditioning and it is working fine, even at these high temperatures.

So, Thomas, I believe it is random why your 3502-02 doesn't work. Better ask Mike to replace it. I think we will do it.

Also I believe that Mike Barbaro is a great professional and a honest man.

First, he gave me the chance to buy a brand new original Pulsar at a reasonal price.

Second, he replaced my watch without any more charges, when i sent it back to him bacause i had a problem with glue under the red crystal.

I 'm sure that this Pulsar is made from today's materials, using only original module and i prefer it that way.

IMO i prefer to pay 350$ to buy this absolutely new watch than pay 800-1000$ to buy a "vintage" P2/P3/P4, which is - in most cases - consisting of fake crystals, other brands oscillators & transistors or modules & components from other watches, etc.

Also I believe, some "clever" guys are trying to get advantage of this market's trend (for LED Pulsars) and they are trying to make a lot of money, selling Pulsar vintage watches in crazy prices...

So, as a conclusion, I m so afraid to bid and buy a "vintage" Pulsar because I'm not sure - and i will never be - if some "clever" guy is going to give me a fake, which i paid as original.

CU around, thanks in advance.

Manos, Athens, Greece
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AV8R

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Post11 Jul 2007, 17:06

Hello Manos,

So you think this SPORT from Mike is not made from "vintage" orig 1970s
module and parts? What evidence do you have for that postion, im curious.

The fact that this one is temperature sensitive, is an indication to me that
the components are aging due to tolerance drift over time.

If Mike is selling "new" components in a SPORT case, then he is false advertising as
the watch would be a REPRO or REFURBISHED and not "New Old Stock".
Unless NOS has a different symantical meaning which includes stuffing old
cases with new components.

Its now over a week, and no response from Mike yet. If I dont hear from him by this weekend, ill use negative feedback to get his attention at Ebay. I agree that he should replace this one if he is selling it as new.

Thomas
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Post12 Jul 2007, 08:58

IMO:

Back in the 1978 a lot of 3502 modules were waiting to be placed in new watches and then go to the market, but suddenly Pulsar / Time Computer "passes" away....

Somebody (an employee or a manager) takes these modules (for free I believe) with the obligation to support warranty for some years for the already sold Pulsar watches in the U.S.

After many many years this guy finds some partners & funds, and they are making deals with some factories (which were Pulsar's suppliers back in the 70s nor absolutely new suppliers) and they decide to "produce" or to "re-produce" the 3502-02 using the NOS module together with contemporary parts which are similar or better to the old originals (case, red crystal, etc.)

So they made a brand new watch, a combination of NOS module and contemporary other parts, which is sold is a very fair price (IMO).

And maybe, Mike Barbaro has a relation with the guy who took the modules, he set-up this business, he makes profit of these and he gives people the chance to buy a brand new Pulsar in a fair price.

This is a personal scenario, just my personal thinking.

Really, I don’t have ant problem with the a.m. scenario, I'm happy that I bought a brand NEW Pulsar in a good price.

Also I'm sure that if somebody could produce the same way, P1s or P2s, etc, I would buy from him.

Regards,


Manos
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retroleds

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Re: high temperatures...

Post12 Jul 2007, 13:22

marba1065 wrote:IMO i prefer to pay 350$ to buy this absolutely new watch than pay 800-1000$ to buy a "vintage" P2/P3/P4, which is - in most cases - consisting of fake crystals, other brands oscillators & transistors or modules & components from other watches, etc.

Manos, welcome to the forum!! I understand you being put off by the recent fake crystal problem, and there is the very rare occurance of a module being "Frankenstiened" together with some odd components, but as a repairperson who looks at 100+ PUlsars a year, I assure you that I see very little of that. The oscillators: the "ancients" knew they would need to be replaced, so they were installed so they can be, fairly easily. An oscillator is like a spark plug - it can only go so long before it is worn out. New oscillators are stabler in their function and are made to tighter specifications(which is why most modern watches don't even have a trimmer for adjustment). I've only seen one PUlsar where someone had wired in a different brand of module, maily because it is almost impossible to find a module with a setting feature than can accomodate the Pulsar magnet-set layout.

I agree that AV8Rs problem with the Sport is unusual....I have one and it seems to function under all reasonable conditions.....a lot of modern LCDs won't display at over 100 degree either. :?
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.
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AV8R

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Post13 Jul 2007, 07:26

I emailed Mike BARBIE9 a 4th time via the Ebay messenger and he did
say he would replace it. Its a hassel and Ill probably be paying more S&H&I
for something not my doing, but if I get a better one its worth it.
Ive asked if he would send me a replacement module, no response yet.

What seems conflicting to me is that Mikes advertisement states that the
SPORT is rated for 30M Water Resistant. Then goes on to say being these
are 30 years old, he wouldnt advise it. Im OK with the age factor or
derating, but what is confusing to me is...

How does a capacitance based button that once some water gets between
the button and case, causes a short malfunction, at the same time gets
a 30M water resistant rating? Seems to me it cannot even take moisture
above water. Please explain...
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Post13 Jul 2007, 07:43

Page 19 of the Pulsar Technical Manual has a good troubleshooting section, including the problems you describe. As for the 30m rating, I think they're saying simply that water will be kept out of the case to that depth, not that it won't affect functioning. Wiping dry with a clean cloth should restore proper operation in the vast majority of cases.
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Post13 Jul 2007, 15:18

AV8R wrote:What seems conflicting to me is that Mikes advertisement states that the
SPORT is rated for 30M Water Resistant. Then goes on to say being these
are 30 years old, he wouldnt advise it. Im OK with the age factor or
derating, but what is confusing to me is...


... I would NEVER put any of vintage LED / LCD watches under water, not even when i wash my hands, for the simple reason: I don't want to destroy them and I don't believe what companies are advertising.

I can use my Rolex or my Tag Heuer for water games.

Also because a use a motorbike, when it starts raining, if I wear my Pulsar, i take it off and i put it - secure - in my pocket... Easy and simple...

:) :)
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Post13 Jul 2007, 17:19

Marba,

If you wipe out that motorcycle while wearing the SPORT,
we will get a proper test of the 3000 G rating spec.

JUST KIDDING

I use my pilots analogue watches for everyday and water sports.
These PULSAR antiques (including myself) are really for collecting and
caual dress wear. IMHO.
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Post13 Jul 2007, 19:20

I ride my motorcylce to work amost every weekday when the weather permits, and in LA it's pretty "permitting". I wouldn't risk wearing any of my LED's on the bike, and none of these are a high-faltuen Pulsar ! :D

I don't know what kind of bike you're riding Marba, but even if it's a smooth running 4 cyclinder, rubber mounted engine (i.e. - no significant engine vibration) those road knocks could easily damage a 30+ year old module of any make. Not worth the risk, IMHO.
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Post14 Jul 2007, 21:29

In contemplating sending back the SPORT to Barbie9/Mike,
I started pondering the symptoms...

1. LED is 1/2 as bright as the James Bond Pulsar
2. Button function is flaky sometimes
3. Overly senstive to temperature
4. Sometimes display goes away, runs better when cold to revive it.


So...............

I took a chance and opened up and put in fresh batteries.
Guess what?
Shes running brighter and no button fluctuations yet.
Havent tried the full temperature range yet, but today will be 105 again
so I should have a good test today.

It may be that the batteries that came with this little Sporty was out of
juice, plain and simple. Kind of dying out slowly.

Will post later on the progress
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Post15 Jul 2007, 01:23

Here's the AV8R LED family: (from left to right)

Microsonic HAC (Hughes Aircraft Co module)
P3 Pulsar "SPORT"
P2 Pulsar "Astronaut" or "James Bond"

Image
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Post17 Jul 2007, 00:48

Nice collecton there AV8R. I have two HAC module watches and they
have been very reliable over the years. I haven't experienced any of the issues you mentioned with the Sport. (The buttons work differently but you know what I mean.) These may be more 'common' modules but they're underrated IMO. :)
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Post17 Jul 2007, 01:23

THanks for the cudos LEDluvr...
At one time, I worked within this group that made these modules.

I have a "DigiTime" HAC watch, so ugly only a HAC employee (me) could love it.
It sports that manly double breasted battery screw on covers.
The manual still calls out who made it and where to send it in to get fixed.

It needs some lovin, so I may put in the HAC module Ed sent me
or just send to Ed for his expertise heart surgery.

AV8R

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