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Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

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J Thomas

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Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post01 Mar 2010, 21:53

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:48, edited 2 times in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post01 Mar 2010, 22:09

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:48, edited 7 times in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post01 Mar 2010, 22:21

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:49, edited 3 times in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post02 Mar 2010, 16:41

Hey Jeff,

Very nice job on the watch so far. You've taken a different route than I did with how you sanded the module down. I took apart the first module I did and almost didn't get it back together and working. Scared me enough to not try that again.

Did you remove the smoked plastic piece off the front of the display? From the pics it looks like you left it on.

Have you tried the case with the Synchronar reeds yet? I tried that once and couldn't get them to work, probably because the Pulsar magnets weren't strong enough.

I didn't epoxy the module in. I ground down just enough so it fits snug in the case and I left the butterflies on the case back to hold the module in place. Also, I "hacked" my piezo alarm to work, it's definately hokey, but as long as it works. I wasn't sure that the contact spring for the alarm was long enough to touch the Pulsar case back, and I don't have easy access to another piezo alarm.

Can't wait to see the finished project!

Mike
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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post02 Mar 2010, 19:02

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:49, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post02 Mar 2010, 20:18

J Thomas wrote:
This part isn't shown in the images yet:
I have also pocket milled the case, cutting four corner recesses into the stepped ring to allow the module to sit deeper into the case. That placed the module much closer to the display window, and the OLED panel looks great when the display is on. I have not peeled the diffuser from the display yet. I'll probably do that shortly.

Regards, Jeff


Nice! I noticed that little ridge in the case was stopping the module from sitting deeper. I might try and make another one and mill out the case like you did. But all I have are my hands and my trusty Dremel tool. :-D

On a side note I managed to score a solid link bracelet for my MIB watch. It certainly makes it feel "beefier". But I might switch it over to my original SS Date/Command which has a hollow link bracelet, unless I can find another solid one.

Mike
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post03 Mar 2010, 04:01

Would modern reed switches work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 3D1&_rdc=1

I have a blue Kenneth Cole oled on its way to me so I am hoping to join the party.

I no previous skills with electronics (of any age) could someone post a close up of where the reed switches would need to be soldered, any other tips would be welcome......I need all the help I can get!
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bruce wegmann

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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post03 Mar 2010, 04:50

NO! Modern reeds will not work [the ones in the auction are 17mm long...the glass part, and would not fit in the case, anyway]. If you're going to put these in a vintage P3 case, with vintage button magnets, you've GOT to use vintage reed switches! Even the standard ones this size from Hermetic won't work; the Pulsar reeds were made to proprietary specifications, and there are no good substitutes. Getting them to sit properly in the case so they work right is a bit of a challenge, but can be done, as has been demonstrated by Mike's groundbreaking effort. I believe I have licked the crystal problem...just ask Jeff [I may even have some spares to sell, if anybody's interested].
Last edited by bruce wegmann on 03 Mar 2010, 10:59, edited 1 time in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post03 Mar 2010, 08:19

Thanks for clearing that up for me Bruce, I can rule that one out as a possibility, shame though it would of been handy.

Having read your reply I remember reading the previous discussion on the same subject :oops:
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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post03 Mar 2010, 16:26

bucko170 wrote:
I no previous skills with electronics (of any age) could someone post a close up of where the reed switches would need to be soldered, any other tips would be welcome......I need all the help I can get!


Mick,

PM me your email address and I'll send you some high res pics of my module.

Mike
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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post03 Mar 2010, 17:06

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:49, edited 1 time in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post03 Mar 2010, 19:08

Thats brilliant thanks for the offers :-D

The donor watch is a 'Kenneth Cole' which is being shipped to me in the UK from the USA so it will be a couple of weeks before it arrives.

I have some reed switches of the correct spec' and some 3mm blue acrylic sheet, to make the crystal out of, on it's way so together with the two donor Pulsars picked up from the recent eBay auctions (Pulsar Tom's old stock) I think I have just about all I need.

I think I will probably start with the crystal as the acrylic should arrive before the donor watch.

Cheers Mick.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post13 Mar 2010, 02:38

I had a go at making the new blue crystal, although it is far from perfect as a first go I am quite pleased with how it has turned out.

I traced around the original crystal on the back side of the acrylic sheet to get an over-sized template for the correct shape, I then cut it out in rough and used a upturned flat sander to shape to the required size using the original crystal as a template, I then finished the edges off with fine grit paper.

I am not sure if the color will be to dark for the display so I will wait until the K. Cole arrives and test the display through the crystal before attempting to make a better one.

One thing I noticed is that at 3mm the acrylic is thicker than the original and therefore the new crystal protrudes slightly more from the case than the original - I had a quick look and couldn't find anything smaller - I noticed the samples where roughly the same size (1\8th) is 3mm the same size as you guys used?

Is there any particular type of acrylic which works best? Translucent? I have the standard tinted stuff.

Cheers Mick.
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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post13 Mar 2010, 03:38

bucko170 wrote:I had a go at making the new blue crystal, although it is far from perfect as a first go I am quite pleased with how it has turned out.

I traced around the original crystal on the back side of the acrylic sheet to get an over-sized template for the correct shape, I then cut it out in rough and used a upturned flat sander to shape to the required size using the original crystal as a template, I then finished the edges off with fine grit paper.

I am not sure if the color will be to dark for the display so I will wait until the K. Cole arrives and test the display through the crystal before attempting to make a better one.

One thing I noticed is that at 3mm the acrylic is thicker than the original and therefore the new crystal protrudes slightly more from the case than the original - I had a quick look and couldn't find anything smaller - I noticed the samples where roughly the same size (1\8th) is 3mm the same size as you guys used?

Is there any particular type of acrylic which works best? Translucent? I have the standard tinted stuff.

Cheers Mick.


Hey Mick,

I used 3mm plexi that is translucent blue. It seems to be the smallest thickness available. If you bevel the edges it won't be noticeable. I taped the plexi to the crystal using double sided tape, then just sanded until the two pieces were flush with each other. Hand sand the corners down otherwise the shape will end up too round.

Make sure you pull the smoked piece of plastic off the display. It is much brighter without it.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post13 Mar 2010, 04:23

Good tip with the double sided tape, I will give it a try next time around, are these the samples you used for the crystal?

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Sample ... RANSPARENT
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post13 Mar 2010, 07:48

Guys! I've got a few extras I had CNCd from 3mm 2424 blue plex. Perfect fit [conforms to original Time Computer specs], beveled and ready to go. $25 each, but nothing better around at any price. Jeff has one...he'll tell you. There's even a possibility I may have the Hamilton logo problem solved. Will keep you advised...
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post13 Mar 2010, 16:46

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:50, edited 1 time in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post14 Mar 2010, 00:14

jeff, that came out really nice. i like the way the secs scroll down the screen. peter
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post14 Mar 2010, 04:13

Great job, Jeff! And Bruce, the crystal came out fantastic! I can't wait to see yours.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post14 Mar 2010, 07:34

Awesome job Jeff! :O`~
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post29 Mar 2010, 16:17

I made a start on the Frankenstein a spring fell out when I dismantled the watch, did I put it back in the correct position?

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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post29 Mar 2010, 16:49

bucko170 wrote:I made a start on the Frankenstein a spring fell out when I dismantled the watch, did I put it back in the correct position?

Image


Mick,

That spring is not in the right place. See this picture from Jeff:

Image

See that little circle contact @ the top left? If you pull off the metal case there will be a little hole in the plastic carrier that that spring drops into, making contact with that pad. The spring completes the circuit between the board and the metal. Take a look at some of the pics I sent you, I think there's one of the top left corner where I ground down right to that spring.
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