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I've gone analog!

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Sully008

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I've gone analog!

Post04 Mar 2010, 02:54

I'm a total noob when it comes to manual wind watches, both my brothers own either a manual or automatic watch, so I wanted to see what the deal was with watches with hands and a traditional movement without breaking the bank.

Anyways, I wanted to buy my first manual/automatic watch. After searching and reading, I was totally unsure of what "style" of watch would suit me, since I'm used to looking at red digital digits. I looked at diver watches, pilot watches, fashion watches, etc... I was looking hard at purchasing a Marathon GSAR, then the Dievas Vortex caught my eye, but neither was "me". I'd show them to my wife and she'd say "that doesn't look like something you would wear".

Finally, I stumbled upon a "Best PAM Homage" thread on another forum. I remembered seeing a Panerai in a watch magazine I bought years ago. I was immediately hooked. I read all 70+ pages before the thread was locked. I looked at all the different styles you could create with such a basic design. I finally settled on something I wanted and read everything about the different vendors of the homage watch.

I finally contacted a member of that site who assembles PAM homages and makes his own straps, as I liked the look of some of the watches he built (plus he's in Canada too)! He gave me some options on what he could provide, and here's what I ended up with:

44mm Titanium Luminor case (Destro)
Sapphire crystal
Titanium exhibition back
Asian 6497 movement w/Swan neck regulator
Matte black Sandwich dial w/seconds @ 3
Black hands, white second hand
Blue C1 lume
Custom black leather band w/black buckle.

Here are some pics (I'm not the greatest photographer):

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A couple of lume shots:

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And the obligatory wrist shot:


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I love the watch! The strap is made out of the softest leather I've ever touched. I showed the watch to my wife and she said, "now that watch suits you to a tee". I'll be commissioning him again to make me another custom watch. Don't get me wrong, I'm not switching teams...I still love the glow of red @ night! :mrgreen:
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cheeksterr

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: I've gone analog!

Post07 Mar 2010, 12:47

Hi

I actually love the watch's appearance. Looks rather nice. I too have my glow in the dark red led watches but have recently been looking at a ticker.
Was wondering how much that cost you.
Also here's a link to what I'm watching, again I have no idea on value but I just like the look of it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320496001830&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Cheeksterr
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: I've gone analog!

Post08 Mar 2010, 17:25

Cheekster: You may want to pass on that watch. The movement is really low jewel(from pics) and the works look, frankly, a little crude. Tenor-Dorley, Sicura, Hoga, Buler,Dugena and a host of others made jump-hours with quality movements. An auto-winder movement is a good investment for those unaccustomed to manual winders. Over-winding a watch really sucks!

With that said, at least the price on that one is reasonable for right now. :-)
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clockace

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: I've gone analog!

Post08 Mar 2010, 19:03

that mov't is a copy of the eta6497 that is used in the real panerai. it is probably a 17 jewel mov't. with what looks to be an incabloc shock resist on the balance. the balance has 5 jewels total. 2 on each end and the roller. the pallet fork has 4 jewels total, 1 on each end of the arbor and 2 pallet stones. the next wheels in line probably have 1 jewel on each end of the arbor. that would be 8 jewels, so 8+9=17. being asian made they may have fudged on the ones you cannot see, but i don't think so. 15-17 jewels is all you really need on a mov't like this, even on a high grade version made in switzerland. the finish on the mov't plates is par for the mov'ts price. just a professional watchmakers comments. by the way, it is illegal to sell knockoffs of any brand. not illegal to own one, just to sell one. regards, peter
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: I've gone analog!

Post08 Mar 2010, 19:42

Pete - I stand correct on the movement. Looks kind of crude to my eyes, but I'm not a mechanical watch guy. Every Ingersoll I've had was crap, but hey, they might have been fakes...I wouldn't know.
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.
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cheeksterr

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: I've gone analog!

Post08 Mar 2010, 19:42

Thankyou for your kind reply

I am totally amazed at the knowledge of you guys. I am a sucker for something looking good as opposed to working well. I own a Omega TC2 because I love it looks and nothing else (can't wear it because i need more strap links SS). The Ingersoll watch again just becuase of its looks. I only wanted to pay about £35 for a day to day watch. I may need to do some more research now on a jump hour watch, but sooner spend my hard earned cash on LED's.

Regards
Carl
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Sully008

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Post08 Mar 2010, 23:03

Hi Peter,

You're right, it's made by Seagull in China. There's no way I could afford a real Panerai and the homage watch hobby is an inexpensive way to get your feet wet. Also, this Asian movement is built like a tank. It would be illegal for it to say "Panerai Marina Militaire" on the face and pass it off as a real one. This watch cost me $285Cdn. opposed to $6000 for a real Panerai.

I know this will never have the provenance as a real one, but who knows, one day I might have enough disposable income to afford a real one.
clockace wrote:that mov't is a copy of the eta6497 that is used in the real panerai. it is probably a 17 jewel mov't. with what looks to be an incabloc shock resist on the balance. the balance has 5 jewels total. 2 on each end and the roller. the pallet fork has 4 jewels total, 1 on each end of the arbor and 2 pallet stones. the next wheels in line probably have 1 jewel on each end of the arbor. that would be 8 jewels, so 8+9=17. being asian made they may have fudged on the ones you cannot see, but i don't think so. 15-17 jewels is all you really need on a mov't like this, even on a high grade version made in switzerland. the finish on the mov't plates is par for the mov'ts price. just a professional watchmakers comments. by the way, it is illegal to sell knockoffs of any brand. not illegal to own one, just to sell one. regards, peter
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Sully008

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Re: : I've gone analog!

Post08 Mar 2010, 23:24

Ed,

I think Peter's commenting on the movement in my watch, although I do agree, the movement in the Ingersoll doesn't look very robust.

retroleds wrote:Pete - I stand correct on the movement. Looks kind of crude to my eyes, but I'm not a mechanical watch guy. Every Ingersoll I've had was crap, but hey, they might have been fakes...I wouldn't know.
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Re: : I've gone analog!

Post09 Mar 2010, 02:54

Sully008 wrote:Ed,

I think Peter's commenting on the movement in my watch, although I do agree, the movement in the Ingersoll doesn't look very robust.

retroleds wrote:Pete - I stand correct on the movement. Looks kind of crude to my eyes, but I'm not a mechanical watch guy. Every Ingersoll I've had was crap, but hey, they might have been fakes...I wouldn't know.

Too funny. Of course your watch's movement is very quality looking - yes, the jewels are apparent, the machining is crisp. I was too busy to go back to the jump-hour's movement and see where and what I had missed in my haste. Oh well, better to be wrong about being wrong than being right about being wrong. But I could be wrong about that.
Right? :-)

Now I take an enlarged look - one jewel in the Ingersol. :oops:

Your new watch is definitely different, in a minimilistic way. That left sided crown...is this for the left handed?
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.
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Sully008

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Re: : I've gone analog!

Post09 Mar 2010, 04:10

retroleds wrote:
Now I take an enlarged look - one jewel in the Ingersol. :oops:

Your new watch is definitely different, in a minimilistic way. That left sided crown...is this for the left handed?


Yup, you got it. Panerai calls their lefty models "Destro". Actually, a regular model would probably be better because the crown doesn't dig into your wrist when worn on the right.

I'm all about minimalism. "Understated Elegance" is always my motto.
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: I've gone analog!

Post26 Jul 2010, 10:17

All right. I'm intrigued. How does that lume work?

For the face, it looks like the figures are cut (or punched) as holes in the face, and the surface with the lume is visible through these holes.

That reminds me of a watch design idea I had a day or two ago: cut all twelve figures as holes in the face. Have a "jumping" hour hand behind the face, and an ordinary minute hand in front of the face. "Jumping" hours can be disambiguated by making the hour hand stay still for 55 minutes followed by advancing 30 degrees smoothly over the next 5 minutes.
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Post26 Jul 2010, 21:59

zzzzzz wrote:All right. I'm intrigued. How does that lume work?

For the face, it looks like the figures are cut (or punched) as holes in the face, and the surface with the lume is visible through these holes.

That reminds me of a watch design idea I had a day or two ago: cut all twelve figures as holes in the face. Have a "jumping" hour hand behind the face, and an ordinary minute hand in front of the face. "Jumping" hours can be disambiguated by making the hour hand stay still for 55 minutes followed by advancing 30 degrees smoothly over the next 5 minutes.
That sort of thing has been done - take a look at these(I have 3 of them now, I've become addicted to the idea of havign a small collection of them in mint-NOS condition.)
http://www.dwf.nu/viewtopic.php?t=2922& ... 241728f148

Proper jump time(most are re-set up incorrectly when serviced :x ) is at 1 a.m.
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.
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clockace

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: I've gone analog!

Post27 Jul 2010, 00:21

ed, remembering from my u s navy days 1300 should be 1pm. i was going to buy one of those, but they are usually found in a chrome plated case. i wanted s/s. now they are worth several hundred dollars if you can find one in decent shape. you are right that the time should change at 1pm to 1300. at noon it is still 12xx until 12:59 and 59 secs. at 2300 it is still 23xx until 23:59 and 59 secs. then instead of going to 2400, which most 24 hr watches do, it should correctly be 00:01 until 01:00, which is in the wee hrs. the mkI/II synchs do that correctly, only the display reads 0:01 etc. until 2:00. i believe i have seen a reissue of these. the gruen airflight that is. peter
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Sully008

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Re: : I've gone analog!

Post27 Jul 2010, 00:48

zzzzzz wrote:All right. I'm intrigued. How does that lume work?

For the face, it looks like the figures are cut (or punched) as holes in the face, and the surface with the lume is visible through these holes.


That's correct. The lume is applied to a subdial, and the indices are cut out of the top dial. On that note, I had that the same gentleman assemble a second watch for me that I designed, inspired by the art deco era and this picture:

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The watch:



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Post27 Jul 2010, 02:07

clockace wrote: i was going to buy one of those, but they are usually found in a chrome plated case. i wanted s/s. now they are worth several hundred dollars if you can find one in decent shape. peter
Yeah, stainless one was about $950, I have a nice gold-filled in a more conventional, round, exposed-lug case, another in a gold-plated tv-shaped case. Jump hours, auto-winders and silly electronic watches are about the only ones I claim for myself, and thus display and wear them too. Current go-to, "no worries" watch for me has been a Citizen analog auto-winder - plastic crystal, cheap leather band, cost me like $15.
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.

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