It is currently 18 Oct 2025, 23:24


P2 Button Replacement

For electronic related stuff like module repair, silver epoxy fixes etc.
Post a reply
  • Author
  • Message
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

P2 Button Replacement

Post30 Dec 2009, 00:48

It's the darndest thing, I have a gold P2 ( I know - we need to document the the serial number? :-D ), nothing out of the ordinary.
Anyway, it's been sittng around sans batteries and I was admiring it when I noticed the button was sunk in. I opened it up and the button and the plate holding it in fell off!

How do I get the bugger back on - as it's gold filled. Regular solder won't stick, right? Perhaps I could use the same 5 min. expoxy that some use to stick on a new crystal?
Would that hold up under repeated button pushing??
Top
Offline
User avatar

retroleds

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 3634
  • Joined: 04 Feb 2006, 10:34
  • Location: Surrounded by hicks and sticks (farms and woods) - Michigan,USA

: P2 Button Replacement

Post30 Dec 2009, 20:17

Mike, you can use epoxy to do that repair. But I am curious, you say "plate", usually it is a "cap". A "plate" is usually found on solid gold pieces. You case doesn't have four squares inside of it that the module sits on does it?
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.
Top
Offline

smokefrog

Geek

Geek

  • Posts: 66
  • Joined: 22 Mar 2009, 01:22
  • Location: Shelby Twp. MI

: P2 Button Replacement

Post30 Dec 2009, 20:39

ed, are you hinting that it may be solid gold?


Good luck

Gus
Top
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

: P2 Button Replacement

Post31 Dec 2009, 01:22

Hi Ed n' Smokefrog,

thanks or your input.
I looked at Smokefrog's pic in the other thread and...... no luck.
I think it's just a 'palin old' gold filled model. The caseback says 14k goldfilled (it is supposed to be the original caseback but you never know) and the inside has a built in ring around the inside 2 for the screw holes, not the little risers for the screw holes. And you can't see the back side of the Pulsar imprint on the inside of the case. Sooo... me-thinks it's really a gold filled model. The clasp is a Champion model and the date on it is 11-72! Making it my oldest Pulsar! :-D
Actually, my oldest LED period. 8-)

Maybe that is why it has a plate and not a cap to lock in the button- an early model?

Just to make sure before I start work on it, should the little "U" shaped 'spring' be placed in with the curve of the U facing outward to the bottom of the button and the tips of the U touching the plate?
Top
Offline
User avatar

charger105

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 867
  • Joined: 02 Mar 2007, 02:11
  • Location: Australia

: P2 Button Replacement

Post31 Dec 2009, 02:00

Hi Ledluvr.
I'm pretty sure the U spring should face outward (with the two ends touching the plate)..........others can confirm this.

What I was going to suggest was that you make sure the button is in the correct way before glueing the plate on :-)! There are 2 ways it can go in. I put one of mine in the wrong way once, and it wouldn't activate the reed switch.

Rgds,
Andrew.
Top
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

: P2 Button Replacement

Post31 Dec 2009, 02:13

Thanks for the tip Charger105, I didn't think it would make a difference what way I put the button in, as long as the curved end of the button was sticking out. :lol: I'll try it out before I seal it. ;-)
(This weekend time permitting.... )
Top
Offline

66Cooper

Nerd

Nerd

  • Posts: 47
  • Joined: 17 Feb 2009, 21:15
  • Location: New Jersey

: P2 Button Replacement

Post04 Jan 2010, 17:37

Can you post any pictures of all this? Would like to see whats inside and what your button plate looks like.
Top
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

: P2 Button Replacement

Post04 Jan 2010, 21:39

Hi 66Cooper; sure. I was so busy last weekend I didn't even start work on this. I'll take some pics of the watch in it's current state, and then post more pics once it's done. :-)
Top
Offline

66Cooper

Nerd

Nerd

  • Posts: 47
  • Joined: 17 Feb 2009, 21:15
  • Location: New Jersey

: P2 Button Replacement

Post05 Jan 2010, 00:23

Perfect!
Top
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

: P2 Button Replacement

Post07 Jan 2010, 19:25

Okay - here are the pics of my gold-filled P2 - plate and all. :-D


Image

Image

I propped up the plate so that you can see it's not a cap....

Image
Top
Offline

66Cooper

Nerd

Nerd

  • Posts: 47
  • Joined: 17 Feb 2009, 21:15
  • Location: New Jersey

: P2 Button Replacement

Post08 Jan 2010, 16:26

Awesome. Thanks a lot!
Top
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

: P2 Button Replacement

Post08 Jan 2010, 19:28

No problem!
Top
Offline
User avatar

retroleds

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 3634
  • Joined: 04 Feb 2006, 10:34
  • Location: Surrounded by hicks and sticks (farms and woods) - Michigan,USA

: P2 Button Replacement

Post08 Jan 2010, 19:40

Magnet/button direction for P2 and/or P3 models.
Command button - magnet is up, toward caseback notch.
Date button - magnet is down, toward setting indents

View pictures on page 22 of Pulsar Jeweler's manual second edition(available for free download here) - http://www.dwf.nu/Info/PulsarManual2ndEd.htm Open the link(.pdf) that says Pages 17-30, it will be the sixth page, entitled "Installing Module Shunt". The hole in the shunt is over the magnet(something they don't explain). Your button may look smooth on the back(inside) but it actually has a magnet pressed into it(some have a totally different magnet setup). Just look for a circle that has machining grain or coloration that is contrary to that on the button back.

8-) Happy New Year to All. I've been a little scarce here lately but just a combination of nasty cold starting before Christmas, holidays, business as usual. :-) How can I miss you if I don't go away? M:)W:)M
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.
Top
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

: P2 Button Replacement

Post09 Jan 2010, 02:29

I see it now. So I line up the circle in the inside (flat side) of the button and align it with the circle imprint on the plate. And if I'm reading the picture correctly, the button should be installed so that the cirlce is on the 'lower side' of the case, closer to the Pulsar logo.

Thank you Ed for your expert advice!
I appreciate it. :-D
Top
Offline
User avatar

retroleds

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 3634
  • Joined: 04 Feb 2006, 10:34
  • Location: Surrounded by hicks and sticks (farms and woods) - Michigan,USA

: P2 Button Replacement

Post09 Jan 2010, 03:34

LEDluvr wrote:I see it now. So I line up the circle in the inside (flat side) of the button and align it with the circle imprint on the plate. And if I'm reading the picture correctly, the button should be installed so that the cirlce is on the 'lower side' of the case, closer to the Pulsar logo.

Thank you Ed for your expert advice!
I appreciate it. :-D


Mike:
It doesn't matter which way the plate goes(that is not the same as a shunt).

But no, a time command button goes with the magnet AWAY from the logo, up. Look at the pictures again and remember you are looking from the back. The middle picture is for your P2(third picture would be for date command on P3). And look at the notch in the case for the caseback - it is at top of watch. The hole in the shunt roughly lays over the magnet, so when the too strong magnet gets close enough, some magnetism can still "leak" through that hole.
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.
Top
Offline
User avatar

LEDluvr

Guru

Guru

  • Posts: 1001
  • Joined: 06 Jun 2007, 22:49
  • Location: Los Angeles

: P2 Button Replacement

Post10 Jan 2010, 00:11

Ahhh... got it now.
Thanks Ed. ;-)

You're welcome.....the devil :twisted: is in the details. E.C.
Top
Post a reply

Return to Electronical

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 45 guests

cron