Litronix Queries

[james_stan]

Hi all

I hope you will be able to help an enthusiastic novice. I have acquired some 'scrap' watches (from the usual source).

One had a Hughes module that was cracked in half by someone trying to jam in a wrong sized battery, sigh...

One (Uranus) had a Frontier module fitted- working but incorrect for case. BTW did these ever use conductive rubber for the buttons ?

Another has an NSC module with cool dot matrix numbers that appear to be set by applying 1.5 V to the the two contacts. Not sure if it's keeping time as I haven't set it up but the crystal is OK and the digits light.

The final one is a Litronix module. I tried powering it from a bench PSU (3V) with croc clips on the bottom connector (-ve) in one compartment and another +ve on the side connector. The two spare connectors buzz out.

However there appears to be no crystal frequency on my (work) oscilloscope (could be shot) and the case (GND ?) connector is reading +3V and the command/set buttons are floating at +1V approx.

Any clue what is happening here ? Have I connected power wrong to this one ?

Cheers

James

[ssnoc]

Hello James, I was wondering if you ever got the Litronix to work? I purchased one and still have not been able to get it fired up at all. It was NOS but unfortunately had leaky batteries inside. I cleaned it perfectly, but still dead as ever.

Can you tell me exactly where you connected those alligator clips? As you can tell I am new to this hobby myself... Thanks!

[retroleds]

Hi all
One (Uranus) had a Frontier module fitted- working but incorrect for case. BTW did these ever use conductive rubber for the buttons ?

The final one is a Litronix module. I tried powering it from a bench PSU (3V) with croc clips on the bottom connector (-ve) in one compartment and another +ve on the side connector. The two spare connectors buzz out.
Cheers, James

The Frontier module is an infinately better(IMO) product than any Uranus produced module. There seems to be some realistic belief that near the end of their run, Uranus purchased modules from other manufacturers, particularly Hughes anf Frontier. Either that, or they were the best replacements.

Your Litronix: You understand that both batterys would normally go down. And the 3 volts is only used to light the display, only 1.5 volts is used to run the circuit. Which is how 99% of LED watches were set up, internally or by the layout of the battery contacts - the Hughes modules with their secondary contact in the "negative down" side are a classic example. Anyway....by not supplying 1.5 v. to the one set of contacts, you aren't running any juice thru the oscillator, hence no frequency action. I suspect you have fried the circuit running th 3 volts through as you have, contrary to it's design.

Final point of understanding the mind(circuit) of a Litronix: There is one contact, usally at either about 12 oclock position or 6 o'clock position that carries juice to the case - power properly, run a jumper from that clip to any of the button or setting contacts - voila! You have light(unless the module is dead, of course).

[james_stan]

Hi Ed

Thanks for the reply. The original post was some months ago. But
(ssnoc) I never did get the Litronix module(s) working.

The 3V 1.5V aspect might have foxed me as I didn't think they 'tapped off' 1.5 V for the crystal and I might well have screwed things up further with my ham-fisted attempts at crystal replacements on those horrid modules with bare bond wires everywhere.

I still have one more (Litronix) module I bought to try and get going
so when I get some spare time I will try out with batteries..

Cheers all and good luck ssnoc.

James

[ssnoc]

Thanks James and Ed --- here is my update:

After reading Eds reply, I opened the module, bought some Lime-Away and went to town. After cleaning it all out I noticed that almost every single copper contact that was attached to the circuit board, was in fact NOT attached, but came off. I tried to solder some back on with the limited skill I have and a nice 20X BETA Loupe and then I noticed that the contacts on the board itself were peeled away in spots - this seems to be one shoddy module!

Anyway, what can I use to paint(?) back on the contacts on the board? Is there such a thing as circuit paint that conducts electric?
Also, how do you suggest I attach the copper clips to the board? Soldering is too abusive to this flimsy board (and my ape man hands don't help) Is there a way (don't laugh) to use conductive glue? Is there such a product? There should be!

I am motivated because after taking Eds advice with the lime away, when I first replaced the batteries, I had Red lights for a few seconds .... this stuff is very addictive :)

Thanks guys!

[james_stan]

You can buy silver epoxy glue (several posts on here regarding best
brand) and also conductive paint.

However I would first check all the bare bonds on the display part
of the board. These can be dissolved by CLR (I'm told) and are V hard to re-make (not dared try myself - leave that stuff to the real
gurus).

If several are gone then it might just pay you to look out for a new working module. NOt what you want to hear but...

James

[ssnoc]

Thanks James,

Its good advice and I've already made up my mind that this module is my "learning module" - I've already learned what NOT to do :) Now I'm seeing if I can fix some of the mistakes ..... And if anyone has a Litronix module that works for sale, please let me know...

-r