I have come a long way to get to where I am, on this site.
I have an interest in watches, particularly, vintage LED watches, with the awesome red hue they produce from their case. I did a little research on them, went through hundreds of different variations, and finally chose one I liked: Pulsar Time Computer Calculator (901 S.S.)
I snagged one on eBay, working, decent condition, albeit light scratches don't turn me off, and wore the sucker for about a week, until the crystal began growing unattractive discoloration all over it, which disgusted me. I took it to the jeweler, they said it was too old and fragile for the watch to be worked on, so I was referred to by a Seiko representative to the StrikesAndSpares USA repair, and sent the watch in. Matt, great guy by the way, is the manager of the USA StrikesAndSpares, and he told me the module was siliconed in the case, and he didn't want to risk damaging the exposed wire-bonds, so he sent it back.
At this point, I'd given up on getting this thing fixed, since I had no experience with working with these vintage electronics, but I figured I'd try to fix it anyway.
Since the crystal on the watch is permanently discolored, I snagged a 14K G.F. case with a dead module (legitimately dead, solder messes everywhere after someone before me tried to re-solder the battery posts) on it for a pretty damn good deal, and proceeded to transplant, which is how I ended up here! I learned how to remove the module through post-experiences from users on this forum, which by the way, extremely helpful. After reading, I proceeded with surgery, making sure to never put the module face-down. Once complete, I screwed the case-back on, pushed on the button, and noticed how damn hard it was to activate the screen. So, I removed the case-back, stuck the battery sticker from the defective case (S.S. version) onto the sticker on the G.F.'s, and voila, the small (less than a millimeter) sticker dramatically improved the button functions, which is actually to my taste; not too hard, and not too soft, so that accidental bumps on the command button won't trigger the screen and waste battery.
To conclude, I had absolutely no experience with this type of technology, but thanks to the people here from their past experience, I learned how to safely "restore?" my watch, albeit much flashier now in it's new case.
Comments and feedback are welcome, respectively.
I have an interest in watches, particularly, vintage LED watches, with the awesome red hue they produce from their case. I did a little research on them, went through hundreds of different variations, and finally chose one I liked: Pulsar Time Computer Calculator (901 S.S.)
I snagged one on eBay, working, decent condition, albeit light scratches don't turn me off, and wore the sucker for about a week, until the crystal began growing unattractive discoloration all over it, which disgusted me. I took it to the jeweler, they said it was too old and fragile for the watch to be worked on, so I was referred to by a Seiko representative to the StrikesAndSpares USA repair, and sent the watch in. Matt, great guy by the way, is the manager of the USA StrikesAndSpares, and he told me the module was siliconed in the case, and he didn't want to risk damaging the exposed wire-bonds, so he sent it back.
At this point, I'd given up on getting this thing fixed, since I had no experience with working with these vintage electronics, but I figured I'd try to fix it anyway.
Since the crystal on the watch is permanently discolored, I snagged a 14K G.F. case with a dead module (legitimately dead, solder messes everywhere after someone before me tried to re-solder the battery posts) on it for a pretty damn good deal, and proceeded to transplant, which is how I ended up here! I learned how to remove the module through post-experiences from users on this forum, which by the way, extremely helpful. After reading, I proceeded with surgery, making sure to never put the module face-down. Once complete, I screwed the case-back on, pushed on the button, and noticed how damn hard it was to activate the screen. So, I removed the case-back, stuck the battery sticker from the defective case (S.S. version) onto the sticker on the G.F.'s, and voila, the small (less than a millimeter) sticker dramatically improved the button functions, which is actually to my taste; not too hard, and not too soft, so that accidental bumps on the command button won't trigger the screen and waste battery.
To conclude, I had absolutely no experience with this type of technology, but thanks to the people here from their past experience, I learned how to safely "restore?" my watch, albeit much flashier now in it's new case.
Comments and feedback are welcome, respectively.
Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.