P3 driving me nuts...

[digibloke]

Really sorry to post with another Pulsar prob but I've totally run out of ideas.

I've got a 3013 module which runs great but after about 3 hours with batteries insists on showing seconds. (Even when left alone with no pressing of buttons in a dark, quiet room). I've tried everything I can think of - changed the reed switch (twice), tried with different cases (four), tried with electricians tape/ tin foil/ pulsar shunt over the button inside the case (the last one worked for three days but I think it was a coincidence because it did it again just as I was begining to think I'd cracked it).

The really, really annoying thing is that it ran fine for two weeks on a module tester (with no case).

Is there somewhere/thing on the module which regulates how long the time is shown before the seconds come up or is it just another clock chip with a bad attitude problem?

To be honest I've spent so many hours on this it'd almost be a relief to put it out of it's misery :wink:

[bruce wegmann]

Last possible test; clip the "Time" demand switch out of the circuit. If the problem continues, it is thus not related to the switch, and is almost certainly a fault in the clock chip itself [probably a failing transistor], and this is not repairable short of replacing the module. The 1.25 second display time is programmed into the chip.

[digibloke]

Thanks for the reply Bruce - I've taken off the switch and hooked it up to a battery. I'm not overly optimistic though after many frustrating late nights with this thing. Looks like coughing up excessive amounts of cash for a replacement module/beat up watch is probably the way forward (again).

[ledwatch]

Hi Digi, please describe your module tester to me, what battery type does it run off?

[digibloke]

Hey Ledwatch. I just made a module tester like the one shown on this splendid website...

http://ledwatch.net/_wsn/page5.html

For the battery holder I bought a tetris game from a cheapo shop for the equivilant of about a dollar, and took the battery compartment out of it. It holds 2 small AAA size batteries with are 1.5v.

I couldn't find any crocodile clips small enough so I used 2 of my wifes hairgrips instead (they hold onto the contacts on a Pulsar module a treat!).

Incidently my troublesome P3 is still running just fine without the switch attached. Damn thing's going to drive me insane. DB.

[ledwatch]

Hi friend, thanks - but the websites not at all splendid, I havent done anything with it in a long time - its nagging at me!!

Ok, heres the thing that maybe you have overlooked, its nothing to do with cutting out reed switches, they are either on or off, I have often found that modules work on the module tester but not in a case and its usually to do with the battery voltage. AA batteries are rated 1.5volts and so two are 3volts (sorry, stating the obvious) you will find that normal 386 cells and 357 equivalents are normally around 1.4volts (2.8volts) the .2volts can make a differnce, if you use silver oxide cells in the watch they are rated 1.55 volts (3.1volts) and the module will often run better. The science behind this is that if you transistors are getting a bit old and faulty, the extra .2 or .3volts gets them conducting a bit better.

When you think about it, its simple but obvious why a good many modules will run better out of a watch on 3volts than inside a watch on 2.8volts, or less if the cells are getting worn out. Try it with fresh 357 silver oxides, Ive a good idea it will work perfectly.....

[digibloke]

Thanks for the advice - that certainly sounds worth a try - the module is still running fine outside of the case and I really can't think of any other explaination. Cheers, DB.

[andyz4000]

Here is what I use

http://users.bigpond.net.au/andyz/TestBoard-1.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/andyz/TestBoard-2.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/andyz/TestBoard-3.jpg

It is a P3 Module which had a Ladies Module on it, the numbers were too small so I replaced the LED Panel on the Circuit board. Another Frankenstine but It was already Modded so I didnt mind having a crack at it

[digibloke]

Would that also work with half inch MDF??? :D

Great to to see a pulsar module refit where we can see where all the contacts go (I've tried it and I realise that photographic clarity of wiring isn't the number one priority). Nice one.

[andyz4000]

Half inch MDF is fine. Just so much easier to work on watches when they are secure and lit. Unfortunately I cant take credit for the rats nest, the wiring was like that when I got it, I only replaced the display

[bruce wegmann]

Great pic; proof positive that a good one is worth a thousand words. This is an interesting variation for two reasons. First, it's the only green movement ring I've seen on a refitted module; second, this is the first one that still has the timing crystal in its' original position at the top. Every other one I'm aware of has the crystal [same type; the little gold cylinder] sitting snugly in a custom-milled slot just above the left-hand setting switch [I assume this was done because it was easier to route the wires to the circuit board contacts from there]. However these came to exist, I think this picture demonstrates that this was a LOT of work [more than I would care to do], and in any event, since the electronics are obviously fully functioning, one had to start with a WORKING P4, in order to make this sort of transplantation possible at all. With all due respect to Time Computer, until someone can explain [within a rational framework], WHY someone would effectively scrap a perfectly working P4 to fix an older [and less valuable] P3, I will still continue to place a bit of faith in that these were done by somebody with access to a LOT of Pulsar parts, for whom the risk would therefore be minimal, financially and otherwise. There are a fair number of these around [dozens at least, I estimate], and the construction is so consistant, that it is impossible to escape the conclusion that they all come from the same source [and that slight variations represent the ascent of a "learning curve"]; [not necessarily from Mr. R., but someone with above-average technical skill] I have two of these, and the internal construction is identical [even to the changed trimmer cap]. I'm not quite ready to stamp "solved" on this mystery...

[andyz4000]

Bruce it was not a P4, its actually a Ladies Pulsar Board. But the numbers just did not suit the large P3 Body They were way to small, I had to remove the small LED panel and fit one with the larger digits, although the numbers are larger the actual rectangle with rear connections are identical :wink:

[bruce wegmann]

I have recently noted that there are actually three different digit sizes among the bar-segment displays; the standard small-digit ladies' size, the P4/Dress size, and an uncommon midsize that I have seen in both Ladies' and Dress watches. It is a subtle difference [perhaps no more than .2mm [.008 inch], but if you put them side-by-side and light them all up, you can see it. I have never seen a P4 with the mid-size digits [so it must be uncommon, but always possible]. I cannot tell if the mid-size display was made by Litronix or Monsanto [unfortunately, the LED chips are not marked with a manufacturer's name]. The full-size ones are actually signed Litronix, so their origin is not in doubt.