Omega TC-1 -Tech question

[HLLUGO907]

I own an OMEGA TC-1. I am trying to find out how old these watches are?
I have had it for maybe 20 years. It was given to me along time ago...used. When I received it, the display didn't light up. I assume that it needed batteries and just stuck it in a drawer and forgot all about it. Recently, I took it to a dealer that was able to put in batteries (the retrofit type with the spacers) and the screen lights up with the time. I was a bit excited but...I set the time using the magnet...no problem. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to keep the time. Maybe there is a short cause when I press the button after a few times, the time will change to a different time.
Can someone tell me what might be causing it or am I doing something wrong? I did notice that there used to be a spring that was attached to the case backing(which completed the circuit) but now after the dealer put the new batteries in..the spring was removed by them. Could this have something to do it too? Please let me know. Thanks.
Again, how old are these watches again? Oh, if I decide to sell which I think I want to...where can I sell it? It is gold plated.

[bruce wegmann]

The first Omega Time Computers probably date to mid-1974 to early 1975. The Swiss were slow to enter the LED market because 1: They weren't analog watches...what they knew best, and 2: It wasn't for a year or so they realized how big the market was getting. Your problem was certainly caused by that incompetant jeweler; I can't believe he lost a part and handed the watch back to you [and didn't say anything?!]. Your batteries are now making intermittant contact, and every time that happens, the module can re-set to a random new time; you need a replacement [bow-tie] connector. As for finding it a new home, there are a number of Omega collectors on the Forum [myself included], and of course, there is always eBay. BTW, one or two-button? The one-button [time-only] models were the first made, and come in 14K goldfilled, 14K white-goldfilled, and a limited edition in 18K solid.

[HLLUGO907]

Thanks for the quick reply. It has the one button. Do you know where I can find a bowtie connector? Also, what type of non-conductive( I would imagine) adhesive is used to connect the bowtie to the backing?

[bruce wegmann]

I have some spares. The connector does not have to be electrically isolated from the caseback [many connectors on goldfilled Pulsar casebacks are actually riveted on; it is notoriously difficult to get anything to stick to gold]. The Pulsar Jewelers' Technical Manual recommends use of a cyanoacrylate [superglue] type adhesive, presumably for how quickly the repair can be done, but it is not the ideal thing to use, because when hardened, it is totally inflexible [and quite brittle]. The connector is forced to bend slightly when the caseback is screwed down [to ensure unbroken contact across the batteries], and that tensile stress will eventually break the bond. I have found a greatly superior adhesive called J-B Quick, a steel-filled epoxy that sets in about fifteen minutes and has bond strength at least equal to the PermaBond-type materials. The real trick to getting a good bond is making sure there is no trace of dirt or oil on either surface [a wipedown with acetone on a clean cloth works well]. Heating the caseback [after the part is in place] to about 100 degrees C. [about boiling-water temperature] speeds the cure and maximizes bond strength.

[HLLUGO907]

So how do I acquire one of your spares. Also, You got a bit technical with me there. Do I need an adhesive that is non-conductive (so no current flows thru the caseback) or don't I. U lost me there. I thought that you might need something between the caseback and the bowtie connector to prevent that current from flowing thru the caseback.
Let me know...thanks.

[bruce wegmann]

Whether the connector is isolated from the caseback or not doesn't matter. The critical thing is a good bond so you don't lose the part again. The JB epoxy is the better adhesive because it isn't prone to breaking [the fact that it might be conductive isn't relevant]. PM me for details on the part.