Omega Digital 2 1603 new glass

[Ade51]

Hi, I've managed to pick up a nos replacement glass to replace one of mine with a poor logo. Is the removal of the glass the same as the Pulsars such as to heat the watch in an oven and then check after 10 minutes or so to see if it can be pushed out and then use epoxy glue to fix the replacement?

[holly35]

Hello, can i ask where you sourced the replacement glass?
There are a few doing the rounds at the moment . I do , however it from an expert who advised be there are NO new original crystal left. Check possibly the logo, to ensure it doesnt do a vanishing act.

[Ade51]

Hi Holly, I've got it from a UK Ebay seller who has held onto a few replacements in his safe for over 10 years. The item number is 200711595147 and it seems ok. It's in it's original, unopened package with the right code on it but I will check the logo as soon as it arrives.

[LED]

Yes just heat it up until you can push the crystal out from inside, 200° should be sufficient.

I were also very sceptic regarding the quality of new replacement crystals. Recently even genuine Omega spare parts turned out to be very poor quaility consisting of cheap easy breaking glass with non scratch resistant epoxy printing

[Ade51]

Well the glass arrived and I anxiously opened it and used my usual cleaning solutions on it and the logo stayed absolutely solid so it seems that I do have a genuine glass with baked on glass logo. Shame he hasn't got anymore.

[bruce wegmann]

On the glass removal technique. Heating for extended period is NOT the way to go. I use a hot-air gun (the kind that is used to strip old paint or shrink heat-shrink tubing). It goes to about 400 degrees F., so there is no danger of melting solder or breaking the glass, but it makes short work of the epoxy. Hold the muzzle about an inch from the glass and keep it there for 60 seconds; a little pressure from the inside, and the glass should just drop out. Make sure to clean any residual glue from the case while it is still hot; if you let it cool, it almost welds to the metal, and is much more difficult to remove. The whole process, start-to-finish, should not take more than 90 seconds. So, stop putting your watches in ovens for 10 or 20 minutes! You're taking out a watch glass, not baking blueberry muffins! This nonsense got posted on a website, and spread through the collector community like the mumps. It's wrong, unnecessary, and basically, a waste of time (I guess, one of these days, I will have to post a video of the process). Believe me, I've done nearly a hundred of these, and never had a failure.

[Ade51]

Thanks Bruce, I'm hoping to carry out the change in a couple a weeks. I've got another problem to resolve as well with the watch. One of the small rivets (well it looks like a rivet - but could be a screw without a head) that holds the watch strap to the main body has come out. Need to find a way to fix that. Unfortunately the stap for the GF version is not the same standard as the SS.

[bruce wegmann]

Well, it might be neither of those things; it might be a simple straight pin. The Pulsar Big Time is done that way...a pin with a slot in one end; looks like a screw, but isn't (to confuse matters a bit, the P2 bracelet screws actually ARE screws). To be sure, look in the empty hole, and see if there is any sign of threads; if not, it's almost certainly just a pin. The links on the Big Time are all put together this way; you can drive yourself crazy (and do a bit of damage to the bracelet in the process) trying to un-screw these threadless pins. They come out easily with a correct-size pin drift. And again, no more baking your watches like peanut-butter cookies!