
I have envisioned the perfect device for opening these otherwise permanently sealed and encapsulated time modules.I hoenestly do not have time to construct it presently.It would require $200.00 in parts and a few night,s tinkering. The machine does not use the other techniques like as follows:
1.A sharp pair of diagonal pliers used to chomp off each corner at just the right angle so as not to chomp off a reed swith or display corner.Eventualy one of the four corners will allow for additional peeling open so to speak.At this time switch to needle nose to grab a peel instead of cutting it with the diagonal pliers.It is important to note that there is a pluged area and in most cases you can grab the potting seal plug with mini pliers.You should pull this plug out first and foremost in this attempt,otherwise the plug is in the way of progress and grabs the circuit board(breaking things?)instead of allowing you to gently hinge the top off.BTW you can,t perform a complete 90 deg hinge from the backside as if openning a hinged jewelry box or this would be the equivalent of forceing the side mount display into a pancake with the C- board and it,s horizontaly mounted parts.
2. A hot knife or a messy melting with soldering Iron.
3.Mini saw blades, milling,routing devices and so on.
4.An Exacto or similar cutting tool run around the seal many times
( This works just fine on Mk 1 and Mk 2 ,S with transparent red backs) It,s hard to get anywhere doing this to a MK 3 or MK 4.
All the techniques above involve sacraficing the Lexan excluding #4 done to a MK I or MK II(Lexan is a trademark of G.E) leaving a need for a new top and bottom (or backs if you prefer to call it that) Note; Getting the module to a warm state like 6 inches from a 75 watt bulb for 15 mins also helps release the plastic from the-(semi bonded grip) of the Silicone like substance.{Any longer is no good at that distance without a fan or AC blowing on it for optimum charge and temp while chargeing.
The machine will damage the top and bottom minimaly and break no internal parts, while craeting a new flat surface with a bead channel for re-sealing purposes. Sorry to all my English teachers for using so many parenthesis.
For further advice and interest in helping to construct this machine I can be e-mailed at: riehl_synchronar_2100@yahoo.com
Thanks Dot for posting the scans,it is a big sigh of relief and made my day.
1.A sharp pair of diagonal pliers used to chomp off each corner at just the right angle so as not to chomp off a reed swith or display corner.Eventualy one of the four corners will allow for additional peeling open so to speak.At this time switch to needle nose to grab a peel instead of cutting it with the diagonal pliers.It is important to note that there is a pluged area and in most cases you can grab the potting seal plug with mini pliers.You should pull this plug out first and foremost in this attempt,otherwise the plug is in the way of progress and grabs the circuit board(breaking things?)instead of allowing you to gently hinge the top off.BTW you can,t perform a complete 90 deg hinge from the backside as if openning a hinged jewelry box or this would be the equivalent of forceing the side mount display into a pancake with the C- board and it,s horizontaly mounted parts.
2. A hot knife or a messy melting with soldering Iron.
3.Mini saw blades, milling,routing devices and so on.
4.An Exacto or similar cutting tool run around the seal many times
( This works just fine on Mk 1 and Mk 2 ,S with transparent red backs) It,s hard to get anywhere doing this to a MK 3 or MK 4.
All the techniques above involve sacraficing the Lexan excluding #4 done to a MK I or MK II(Lexan is a trademark of G.E) leaving a need for a new top and bottom (or backs if you prefer to call it that) Note; Getting the module to a warm state like 6 inches from a 75 watt bulb for 15 mins also helps release the plastic from the-(semi bonded grip) of the Silicone like substance.{Any longer is no good at that distance without a fan or AC blowing on it for optimum charge and temp while chargeing.
The machine will damage the top and bottom minimaly and break no internal parts, while craeting a new flat surface with a bead channel for re-sealing purposes. Sorry to all my English teachers for using so many parenthesis.
For further advice and interest in helping to construct this machine I can be e-mailed at: riehl_synchronar_2100@yahoo.com
Thanks Dot for posting the scans,it is a big sigh of relief and made my day.
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