Sensitive 502 module

[Sully008]

Hello all,

So I replaced the broken 503 module in my Dress TC with an NOS 502 from Greg Ratcliff and it seems that it's very sensitive. Some times the time will flash several times in a row, even without wearing the watch. It only does it on the time function. Any suggestions?

[retroleds]

http://www.dwf.nu/images/BrandInfo/PulsarManual2ndEdition17-30.pdf

Page 3 specifically. Make sure the clip on the module is seated correctly and yes, no dirt or other gunk between the button and the case. Just another reason to rub a little silicone into that "crack".

[Sully008]

Hey Ed,

Thanks for that, I cleaned the switches on the inside, made sure the tabs are correct, and dabbed a little bit of WD-40 in the cracks of the switches. Seems to be working correctly now, I'll update in a day or so.

Mike

[Sully008]

Hey all,

Just wanted to update this thread. I cleaned the contacts and put the watch back together and it still flashed occasionally, but not as often. So my next step was to pop the buttons out and clean them. I added some silicone sealant into the hole where the button goes to isolate them from the case. Worked like a charm, the watch no longer shows time by itself. Thanks Ed for that little tip.

[LEDluvr]

I'm resurrecting this old thread to bring up a current problem I have with my Sport model. After hibernating for several years I decided to move it back into the rotation. At first it worked just fine, but now it seems the buttons are 'lazy'. I have to touch and hold my finger over them for a few seconds to get the dispaly to light up .

I'll open up the Sport to remove the module and clean the button contacts. My question is - how to remove the buttons for cleaning? Is it as simple as just pushing them out from the inside of the case?

[Sully008]

I'm resurrecting this old thread to bring up a current problem I have with my Sport model. After hibernating for several years I decided to move it back into the rotation. At first it worked just fine, but now it seems the buttons are 'lazy'. I have to touch and hold my finger over them for a few seconds to get the dispaly to light up .

I'll open up the Sport to remove the module and clean the button contacts. My question is - how to remove the buttons for cleaning? Is it as simple as just pushing them out from the inside of the case?

That's what I did, but you have to be careful because there's a tiny (and I mean tiny) plastic sleeve that isolates the button from the case. They're clear, and nearly impossible to find if you do lose them.

[retroleds]

I'll open up the Sport to remove the module and clean the button contacts. My question is - how to remove the buttons for cleaning? Is it as simple as just pushing them out from the inside of the case?

I'm totally puzzled as to why you would think of removing the buttons on a Sport. They are basically a single piece of stainless, with a thin insulator around them. The only failing they can have, is getting shorted out and keeping the watch on. The contact at the inside might be dirty/weak, but more likely you are suffering from poor contact between your body and the watch case, and your body to the button. Wipe your entire case with some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel(body oil, lotion etc don't conduct electricity well), change the batteries and consider whether your fingers and other skin are terribly dry at this time of year. I know you are in a warmer region, but the air is drier in general in the Northern Hemisphere at this time. I implore you to consider not removing the buttons - you will be a sad man if those insulators get screwed up....trying to retrofit a replacement insulator will be shear hell, and you will always wonder about it if the watch has issues.

Good batteries are crucial with those - it needs all the power it can get to successfully go through your body and trigger things. I've wondered if some peoples' body chemistry works better/worse. Like the way some peoples' hand prints will almost instantly show up as rust on bare steel, others hardly at all(I'm one of those).

I know one person with some spare new buttons and insulators(me) but those are all destined for Men's TC cases. Apparently nobody else thought they were useful when Mike Barbaro sold of them off on ebay. I was the only bidder.

[LEDluvr]

Thank you Sully and Ed for the advice.
As the old saying goes "Discretion is the better part of valor." In other words, I'll err on the side of caution and not remove those buttons. I'll clean the case and contacts on the inside and see how that works out. The batteries are brand new so that part is alredy done.
And yes, LA is a very dry enviornment and I was wondering if my dry hands had something to do with it. That said, the bottom button is the main 'lazy guy' - the top button works almost every time so it must be something going on inside the case.
Thanks guys!

[retroleds]

And yes, LA is a very dry enviornment and I was wondering if my dry hands had something to do with it. That said, the bottom button is the main 'lazy guy' - the top button works almost every time so it must be something going on inside the case.
Thanks guys!

Sorry if I got a little passionate on the "don't go there" - my grandpa always said, "don't fix it if it ain't broken". Maybe "curiosity killed the cat(watch)" is more apropos

For some reason the bottom button does seem the more afflicted when these are suffering sensitivity issues. The top button is the trigger to enter the setting functions.....maybe one of our electrical engineers could make [cogent] comment on how/why that circuit may have a different "firing" sensitivity.

[bucko170]

And yes, LA is a very dry enviornment and I was wondering if my dry hands had something to do with it. That said, the bottom button is the main 'lazy guy' - the top button works almost every time so it must be something going on inside the case.
Thanks guys!

Sorry if I got a little passionate on the "don't go there" - my grandpa always said, "don't fix it if it ain't broken". Maybe "curiosity killed the cat(watch)" is more apropos

For some reason the bottom button does seem the more afflicted when these are suffering sensitivity issues. The top button is the trigger to enter the setting functions.....maybe one of our electrical engineers could make [cogent] comment on how/why that circuit may have a different "firing" sensitivity.

My, none technical, theory is the bottom button, being the time button, is more frequently used and therefore it is more likely to be affected by skin contamination.

Mine had the same problem, to the extent that I was having to lick my finger to get it to work however a wipe with the rubbing alcohol worked a treat and brought it back to full working order again.

[LEDluvr]

retroleds wrote:

Sorry if I got a little passionate on the "don't go there" - my grandpa always said, "don't fix it if it ain't broken". Maybe "curiosity killed the cat(watch)" is more apropos

No worries Ed. I always appreciate your sage advice. I definitley do not want to kill this LED "cat".

[LEDluvr]

Okay -after removal of the module and a good cleaning of the case and contacts with rubbing alchohol- it's workin' like a charm.


"I luv dah ezeh fixes!"