SEIKO 0634-5019

[egomon]

Hi. I had a intresting problem with my Seiko lcd. In summer the displya frose and when I pushed any buttons then the diplay went dim and then came back and did that several times and the time was did not andvansed at all. I put it away and opended the drawer today and it was working perfectly. Does anyone have the same problems with hes watch? Is it woulnrable to the temperature changes or something like thath?
best regards

Egon

[peachykeen]

Hi. I had a intresting problem with my Seiko lcd. In summer the displya frose and when I pushed any buttons then the diplay went dim and then came back and did that several times and the time was did not andvansed at all. I put it away and opended the drawer today and it was working perfectly.

Sounds like some problem with the quartz crystal. Either a cold solder point or a faulty crystal.

Does anyone have the same problems with hes watch? Is it woulnrable to the temperature changes or something like thath?
best regards
Egon

Easy enough to check. Grab a hair dryer, gently heat the watch up and see if the problem comes back.

[egomon]

Thank you "peachykeen" I will try the hair dryer later. I was thinking the same about the quarts christal, it must be it. The time was standign still and nothing else was working, Has anyone experiense exchanging the quarts on this Seiko model?

Best regards

Egon

[bucko170]

From reading the posts from way back I know Kasper is a big fan of the stick a battery in it and wait for the LCD gods to do their magic technique, sometimes it just seems they need to be slowly and gently woken up from a long slumber.

[Seiko Kid]

I think its more some conductive dirt or the like ( ingressed sweat or battery leakage for example ) on the circuit board that when heat is applied the resistance increases through the circuit that that the dirt / grease / moisture is affecting and disrupts the operation of the module.

In my experience with this issue, a good clean and strip down of the module is in order

[Kasper]

yes..first a good cleaning to get all the dirt from the traces and then a new battery in it and wait a few hours/days and i still have modules where there was no life left after cleaning 3 times...it just stopped working

[Phasar66]

I had 2 before that were acting up, one went blank after pulling the crown then came back after a few minutes. The other one had a pulsating display when changing modes then settle after awhile.
After a wash with with a mild acid , display off, let dry completely on a warm place, put back together with new battery and all ills went away after a few weeks, they are working perfect now

[egomon]

Thank you for your replys, from what I can see the modules are very clean without any corrosion. The display is mountet so hard with the metal clip that I do not dare to touch it, i dont wont to damage the display :) But with what acid did you use to clean it...

Best regards

Egon

[Phasar66]

Displays can be scary to remove but are not hard but installing can be tricky because you have to be careful not to disturb and bend the display metal contacts
I remove mines with out any trouble. I use simple acetic acid, vinegar to dissolve corrosion and battery leakage, you can see bubbling from the affected parts
then I rise with distilled water and let dry.

[elceedee]

Be very careful with the connection cones of the movement to the LCD/driver part, the point of connection in these spots is minimal, so the use of too rouch materials might do more harm then good.
Goodluck (if it aint broke, don't fix it..at least with this movement that would be my advice. Unless the problem would re-appear)

[egomon]

Actually the module vent silent again...still numbers and faiding again so I think I will do the acid rutine :)

Egon

[Seiko Kid]

You need to remove the LCD in order to bath it, also you should remove the white plastic LCD holder as to ensure the board dries properly , otherwise the metal switch components will rust
I would also suggest applying a dab of lubricant to the switch movement upon reassemble - pop up the IC chip on the light bulb side to get at any water pooling

Use a small screwdriver to push gently in and up, the single clip of the LCD holding spring. This disassemble and reassemble isn't that hard, you just need to take you time…..

Because of the acid you should brush off the top film of reaction that appears as a dull grey on the solder contacts. And generally wipe over the circuit again with isopropanol to clear off any residue ( I do this just out of habit , good practice really )

Make sure its nice and dry before reassemble, leave it somewhere warm for hours for example - or under your work lamp ;)

If the use of acid worries you then brown vinegar will give you almost as good results with a better peace of mind